PHILIPP PLEIN & BILLIONAIRE AUTUMN/WINTER 2019 NYFW
Welcome to The Grill, Manhattan’s ultimate destination for luxurious, stylish dining and entertainment. A mid-century midtown pleasure palace designed by Philip Johnson and Mies van der Rohe, covered in French walnut walls and Lee Krasner paintings, and filled with historic atmosphere – this is where JFK came to celebrate after Marilyn Monroe’s breathy rendition of Happy Birthday. So, where better in New York for the powerhouse Philipp Plein Group to stage its 20th-anniversary show?
In an intimate black-tie event, Philipp Plein presents a double show for Autumn/Winter 2019. First, a capsule collection from the high-luxury menswear brand Billionaire; followed by the women’s and men’s collection for Philipp Plein. So, sit back and enjoy tonight’s special set menu….
FIRST COURSE – Billionaire
This is Billionaire’s debut show in the United States: an exciting moment to mark the brand’s recent American relaunch with the opening of its first store on Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills. After Milan Fashion Week in January, it’s also Billionaire’s second show in two months.
Accompanied by a live jazz band playing Tarantino hits, Billionaire’s unmistakable cast of mature, silver-haired models step out. The capsule collection is a masterclass in sartorial sophistication and refined elegance, each piece 100% made in Italy – and, this season, dedicated to the seductive world of eveningwear.
As to be expected, tailoring is at the heart of the wardrobe with single and double-breasted suits in soft velvets, with shawl and peak lapels, and matching waistcoats, double-faced scarves and bowties. The rich palette drifts from ecru, beige and brown into burgundy, purple and royal blue.
Elsewhere, check design blazers are worn with silk shirts with jewelled buttons, cumberbunds and straight-legged pants. True to Billionaire’s unwavering dedication to next-level opulence, outerwear is an impressive display of shaved mink coats, crocodile trenches, mink-collared aviator jackets and reversible sheepskin coats – each a proud example of industry-leading craftsmanship. And, in the last word for easy, louche eveningwear, silk patterned pyjamas and gowns are worn with tone-matched rollnecks and slip-ons.
These are classic dress codes reimagined for a modernday dandy. Like the grand surroundings of The Grill, the Billionaire wardrobe delivers tradition perfected for today.
MAIN COURSE – Philipp Plein
Philipp Plein returns to New York Fashion Week for the fourth time this season and with it comes the brand’s signature glamour and attitude. But the trademark bling has been pared back, replaced with a more grown-up, toned-down style; it’s time for a new era of Plein elegance.
Titled Space Cowboy, this collection revisits A/W14’s Noir Cowboy theme, updating the story with a shiny futuristic vision of the Wild West. Cue a German-only soundtrack of Kraftwerk and Rammstein, and a space-age palette of neons and metallics.
With a strong sartorial focus, sharp suiting is at the forefront – a new development unveiled in January, at the men’s show in Milan. Throughout tonight’s co-ed line-up, tailored satin-lapelled jackets are decorated in large zebra and leopard prints, and camouflage patterns in green, beige and blue. The men wear their suits with hoodies, track pants and giant metallic puffer coats; the women, with a matching print neon-lined overcoat or a studded biker jacket with long fringing. Daytime outerwear consists of camel overcoats and trenches with traditional or fluoro tartan detailing, and the women’s eveningwear brings extra drama with floor-length gowns in reflective silver or covered in shimmering sequins.
The iconic cowboy boot is central with souped-up versions in patents and neons, decorated with fringing and studs; for evenings, there are over-the-knee editions for added impact. Oversized buckle belts – that other key cowboy symbol – appear throughout, some multi-layered for maximum, punkish effect. And for a perfect finishing touch, large metal eagle bolo ties.
Like the original cowboys of yesteryear, this Philipp Plein posse are free spirits, heading out to follow their dreams into a new future.
DESSERT – After Party
As Philipp Plein walks down the runway with the Columbian superstar singer Maluma, the show comes to a close, and the lavish after party can begin. Starting the night’s entertainment, rapper Lil Pump performs a live rendition of Arms Around You, his duet with Maluma. Next, Honey Dijon – the hardest working woman in discoland – takes to the turntables to play an exclusive set late into the night.